Mountain Restaurants Val d'Isere
Much has been written about the mountain restaurants in Val d’Isere and the official tourist office website lists 15 separate eateries in the Val d’Isere ski area alone. We pick 9 of our favourite places to eat on the mountain (one or two are in town but are easily accessible on skis) and given that the ski area is so easily linked to Tignes we include in our list the best mountain restaurants in the wider Espace Killy area.
As well as information on access and altitude we also list the telephone numbers of the restaurants so that you can easily make your lunchtime reservation, which is advisable to do in advance (especially for peak weeks). Together Val d’Isere and Tignes arguably offer the best ski area in the world – there is so much variety of slope aspect, the terrain is so snow sure, the lifts so efficient and there is so much skiing for all standards. The selection of mountain restaurants in Val d’Isere is equally impressive but unless you know how to find them you will not come across the best eateries. Our advice is to do a little homework before you arrive in resort and decide which restaurants you want to visit during your week in Val d’Isere. Perhaps even make reservations for the first few days of your holiday so that you can relax knowing that your gastronomic needs are taken care of.
Edelweiss – Val d'Isere - Le Fornet
Tel: +33 610 287 064
Altitude: 2,060m
Pedestrian access: No
Access: Situated on the right hand side of the blue grade Mangard piste which descends from the top of the Le Fornet cable car down to the village of Le Fornet.
Tucked away on a little used run that descends the north face of Le Tete du Plan mountain in the area of Le Fornet the Edelweiss mountain restaurant has a loyal following of fans. There are stunning west facing views down the Isere valley towards the resort centre and the new glass panoramic windows give diners eating inside access to the same lovely vista (although this newer section of the restaurant is less atmospheric than the original part). The menu offers traditional French mountain specialities but there is quite heavy use of double cream, cheese (of course) and foie gras – so make sure you are hungry and have a stomach that can take rich food. The steaks are great and there is also a good selection of pastas.
The terrace is lovely in the warmer months of March and April but being on the north facing slopes means that only the hardy will sit here in December, January and February. Reservations need to be made in advance and our advice is to book a table inside in the older, original section.
Rene – Val d'Isere - Le Fornet
Tel: +33 771 00 18 17
Altitude: 2,060m
Pedestrian access: No
Access: Situated on the lower level of the Restaurant Edelweiss above.
The runaway success of the excellent Edelweiss mountain restaurant has enabled its owner to develop the lower level of the building into a new restaurant called Rene. From the large sun terrace there are stunning west facing views down the Isere valley towards the resort centre and the new glass panoramic windows give diners eating inside access to the same lovely vista. Pork and beef feature heavily on the menu and make no mistake - this fine restaurant offers a true gastronomic experience on the mountain.
The terrace is lovely in the warmer months of March and April but being on the north facing slopes means that only the hardy will sit here in December, January and February. Reservations need to be made in advance and our advice is to book a table inside unless the weather is warm and sunny.
Le Signal – Val d'Isere - Le Fornet
Tel: +33 479 06 03 38
Altitude: 2,320m
Pedestrian access: Yes
Access: Situated next to the top of the Le Fornet cable car station. Pedestrians can ride up the cable with a pedestrian pass.
The food served is from a smaller menu than you might imagine but the quality of food and the service are both undeniable. It doesn't hold a Michelin star but the food really is that good. Make sure you book a table at the smarter waiter served restaurant and not in the self-serve area which is the main part of the restaurant. The decor is chic and smart with an art gallery vibe, the views from the large windows down the valley sensational. Brigitte has owned the restaurant since 1999 and is now joined by her son, Charles. Together they run one of Val d'Isere's most respected on-mountain venues with flair and charm.
If eating from the lower self-serve area the terrace is lovely in the warmer months of March and April but being on the north facing slopes means that only the hardy will sit here in December, January and February. Reservations need to be made in advance and our advice is to book a table inside in the 1st floor restaurant.
Trifollet – Val d’Isere - La Daille
Tel: +33 4 79 41 96 99
Altitude: 2,000m
Pedestrian access: No
Access: Skiing down from the top of the La Daille funicular or gondola there are several different grades of piste that lead to the Trifollet. The green Verte, the blue Diebold or Criterium or the red World Cup run, the ‘OK’ (Oreiller-Killy), will all access this pretty two level restaurant.
This is a very popular lunch spot as it is located on one of the main routes back down to the valley floor. However, it’s not that obvious and is often not discovered until the end of guests’ week in Val d’Isere. Its south facing large balcony gives great elevated views of the main piste leading back down to La Daille and this is a fantastic place to watch the passing action. The restaurant serves very good tartiflette (the word trifollet roughly translates to ‘potatoe field’ so this is fitting) but the excellent pizzas are what most people will choose. This is a fun, lively restaurant with good service and atmosphere. We recommend eating inside and on the upper mezzanine level which gives a good overall view of the restaurant and is also less crowded.
Lo Soli – Tignes - Aiguille Percée
Tel: +33 4 79 06 98 63
Altitude: 2,420m
Pedestrian access: Yes (sort of)
Access: The restaurant is situated right next to the top of the Chaudannes chairlift from Tignes Le Lac centre so you can get there on foot if you don’t mind walking off the chairlift at the top (it’s one of those detachable chairlifts that slows down at the top and bottom). You can ski down to the restaurant from the iconic Aiguille Percée (the ‘eye of the needle’ which is a large rock with a hole through it) using the blue Corniche piste.
This restaurant with large south facing balcony has two sections. Most of the restaurant is dedicated to the self serve part and this serves a function. However, there is a small, table service restaurant tucked away at the back which is what we recommend. There are only half a dozen or so tables and with the open fireplace lit there is a very cosy and private atmosphere. The food and service are both excellent.
Le Panoramic – Tignes – Grande Motte
Tel: +33 4 79 06 47 21
Altitude: 3,030m
Pedestrian access: Yes
Access: The restaurant is situated in the big building at the top of the Tignes Funicular railway (which ascends the Grande Motte from Tignes Val Claret).
In 2008 the celebrated Parisian fine dining chef Jean-Michel Bouvier became the head chef at the newly built 4 star, Suites du Nevada, in Tignes Val Claret. He and his wife developed the Whitney bar and the Table en Montagne restaurant which really put this luxury hotel on the ‘map’. Today Jean-Michel and his wife own the Suites du Nevada (which now has 5 stars) and they also took on the ownership and management of the Le Panoramic restaurant which is situated just below the Grande Motte glacier at over 3,000 metres in altitude.
If you are looking for a glamorous fine dining mountain experience then gastronomic Le Panoramic restaurant makes a first class choice. The dining chairs are lined with sheep skins and there is a modern, wealthy vibe that pervades the restaurant. Wearing their traditional Savoyard berets the staff will make sure you are well looked after. In his open kitchen, Jean-Michel Bouvier, inspired by his Savoyard roots, uses local ingredients to create simple but delicious dishes which bring to bear all the natural flavours. This restaurant is not cheap but it is worth it – in fact the views alone are worth paying for.
La Fruitiere – Bellevarde – Val d’Isere
Tel: +33 4 79 06 07 17
Altitude: 2,290m
Pedestrian access: Yes
Access: The Folie Douce apres ski bar/club and the fine dining Fruitiere restaurant next door are located at the top of the gondola lift that departs from La Daille, Val d’Isere
The Folie Douce apres ski bar/club is now a world famous brand but it had very humble beginnings when in 1980 Luc Reversade and his mother opened their restaurant, La Fruitiere, with 5 members of staff at the top of the La Daille gondola. Combining Luc’s love of all things creative, his management skills learnt at the Ecole Hotelerie in Thonon and his mother’s love of simple, home style cooking was an inspired decision. The Folie Douce brand now employs over 400 people (plus countless performers) and the Fruitiere restaurant has become the place ‘to see and be seen’ on the mountain, attracting a similar crowd to the Club 55 ‘Cinquante Cinq’ on Pampelonne beach, St Tropez. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea to flash the cash but if you like good food, a fun atmosphere and are also partial to some serious apres ski partying then this is the place for you.
The staff are bronzed, young and invariably beautiful (male or female) and dressed in their blue boiler-suit overalls are instantly recognisable as part of the Folie Douce brand. Some people enjoy the theatre of showing off with orders of champagne or magnums of rose but if you are not too fussed about being seen like this but do still want to eat well then we recommend taking an indoor table. It won’t give you the same great mountain/piste views that sitting on the large sundeck will but it’s more private and less noise affected. If you are sitting outside you will find when the music from the Folie Douce gets cranking any conversation pretty much ends.
Please note it is the Fruitiere (not the fruitery) and the apres ski club is the called the Folie Douce (not the Folie douche – which we are pretty sure is something else entirely!)
L'Etincelle – Val d'Isere
Tel: +33 4 79 41 13 11
Altitude: 1,850m
Pedestrian access: Yes
Access: Easily reached either on skis or by foot L'Etincelle is one of the newest and coolest eating spots in Val d'Isere. Located at the foot of the slopes leading down from the Solaise Mountain (opposite the base station of the old Solaise cable car) or accessed by foot from the bus stop Rond Point des Pistes.
The large sun terrace is definitely one of the places to be seen and see - no more so than in the warmer months of March and April when alfresco dining is de rigeur. Step into the culinary world of Chef Pierre-Yves Casanova and enjoy his grilled meats, pastries and desserts, all home-made on the premises naturally. Generously topped pizzas are also good and there is a comprehensive wine list if that floats your boat. As a new venue L'Etincelle utilises all the eco credentials it can muster. Geothermal energy capture, sustainable cooking practices and the CTM (Centralised Technical Management) system have meant the restaurant has reduced its energy consumption by a factor of 3.
La Peau de Vache – Bellevarde – Val d’Isere
Tel: +33 4 79 06 11 29
Altitude: 2,220m
Pedestrian access: Yes
Access: The easy way to access this restaurant is to take the Bellevarde Express chairlift from the main lift hub in Val d’Isere. From here it is just a very short ski (or walk) of 50 metres to the restaurant which is on your right hand side. To access from above you will have to take on the Face black run to reach it. This is perhaps not as bad as it may seem as the nasty section is the lowest part which you can avoid by taking the Loyes Express chairlift back up the mountain after lunch.
The Peau de Vache (translates as cowhide) is a bit of a gem. It is not on the main tourist trail (being half way down a black run) and most skiers will ski straight past it without noticing its presence as they are concentrating too hard on the steep mogul field before them. However, once discovered it quickly joins most skiers ‘must visit’ list – the views from the terrace over the resort centre are worth it alone. The fact that they serve the most delicious burgers and steaks is just a bonus.
The exterior of the restaurant is rather unassuming but the interior is wonderfully atmospheric with the full-on Savoyard chalet charm lit by the softening glow of candlelight.
We can't believe we are promoting the Peau de Vache as really we want to keep it just as it is for ourselves. However, the best kept secret is out now.
